The Skincare Routine Our Doctors Actually Recommend
Not ten steps. Not a product for every concern. A short routine that does the work, and the habits that quietly undo it.
Less Than You Think
Most of the skin we assess is not under-treated. It is over-treated. Too many products, too many actives, and too many changes in too short a time leave the skin barrier irritated, and irritated melanin-rich skin tends to darken.
A good routine is short, consistent and, frankly, boring. Here it is.
The Morning
A gentle cleanser
Something that removes oil and last night’s products without leaving your skin tight or squeaky. If your face feels stripped after washing, the cleanser is too harsh.
An antioxidant, if you want one
A vitamin C serum can help brighten the skin and protect against environmental damage. It is useful, not essential.
A moisturiser
Even oily skin benefits from a light moisturiser that will not block pores. A healthy barrier is the foundation for everything else.
Sunscreen, every day
Broad-spectrum, SPF 30 or higher, applied generously every morning, indoors or out, rain or sun. For melanin-rich skin, a tinted mineral formula with iron oxides also protects against the visible light that drives dark marks.
The Evening
Cleanse properly
If you wear makeup or sunscreen, cleanse twice: an oil or balm first to dissolve it, then your gentle cleanser. It removes everything without scrubbing.
One targeted treatment
This is where the routine becomes yours. A retinoid for texture, breakouts and signs of ageing. Azelaic acid for dark marks and redness. Something specific for acne if that is your concern. One, not four.
Moisturise
Especially if you use a retinoid, which can be drying while your skin adjusts.
The best skincare routine is the one you can do every single day for a year.
The Habits That Undo It
Stop doing these
- Scrubbing with grains, brushes or harsh exfoliants
- Using lightening creams of unknown strength or origin
- Starting several new products in the same week
- Picking at spots, which leaves marks that outlast the spot by months
- Skipping sunscreen because it is cloudy, or because your skin is dark
Introducing Actives Safely
Start one new active at a time, at a low strength, two or three nights a week. Give it six to eight weeks before you judge it. Retinoids in particular can cause a spell of dryness and irritation, and in darker skin, irritation can leave marks. Slow is faster in the end.
When a Routine Is Not Enough
A routine maintains skin. It does not treat everything. Persistent acne, melasma, scarring and stubborn dark marks usually need a medical assessment and, often, treatment in clinic alongside a good routine at home. Hyperpigmentation in Nigerian Skin explains why pigment in particular needs that care.
Our consultations begin with your skin, not with a product.
Common Questions
Do I need sunscreen if I have dark skin?
Yes. Melanin gives some natural protection against burning, but not against the dark marks and ageing that sunlight and visible light cause. For darker skin, sunscreen is the single most effective step against uneven tone.
How long before I see results?
Give any new routine or active six to eight weeks, and pigment concerns three months or more. Changing products every week means you never find out what actually works.
Can I use vitamin C and a retinoid together?
Yes, but the simplest way is vitamin C in the morning and the retinoid at night. It keeps irritation down and lets each work where it is most useful.
Dr. Gladys Emokpaire-Oni
Medical Director, Bluorchid Aesthetics
Specialist in facial profile enhancement, anti-ageing medicine, and medical weight loss. Founder of Bluorchid Aesthetics, Lagos. Fourteen years of clinical practice in aesthetic medicine.
